If you’re about to install a 2-post car lift in your garage, the first step is to measure the thickness of the concrete. Place the lift roughly 13 feet from the garage door. Drill a hole about 4-1/4 inches in diameter in the concrete slab. Measure the distance from the door to the power unit. Then, find the power unit of the lift. Depending on the type of car lift, the depth of the hole can vary.
Place the car lift about 13 feet away from the door
Before drilling a hole in the concrete, the number one solution is to read the instructions for the lift. You need to install it at a distance of at least 13 feet from the door, which will allow you to drive the car inside the shop without it sticking out of the back door. Drill a hole in the concrete that is at least 1 inch deeper than the recommended depth. Once the hole is drilled, the car lift will be stable enough to move it from one position to the other.
If you have a steel door, the concrete should be at least 6 inches thick. The concrete should also be strong enough to support the lift’s columns. Make sure to place the car lift at least 13 feet away from the door to drill the concrete thickness test hole. The height of the lift should also be taken into account. Depending on the lift model, you may need to modify the depth of the concrete floor.
Drill a 4-1/4” diameter hole in the concrete slab
You must first identify where to drill the holes in the concrete slab before drilling it. You must also locate the hole in a safe and inconspicuous area. If you can, use a stiff wire to measure the depth of concrete in the hole. When drilling, ensure to follow the exact procedure to avoid any accidents. To avoid hitting the rebar, you must use the correct rebar cutting bit. These bits can be bought for $75 and are available at most hardware stores.
Once you’ve determined the depth of the concrete slab, you can drill the anchor. You can use an impact wrench to drill the anchor, but make sure not to damage the threads. Drill a 4-1/4” diameter hole in the concrete slab for the 2 post car lift concrete thickness test. The anchor must be drilled a minimum of 4-1/4” deep.
Locate the power unit on a car lift
First, locate the power unit on a car lift. It can be on either side of the car lift. This is the location where the main electrical power supply will be connected. When the vehicle is loaded on the lift, the power unit should be on the passenger’s side. Use a chalk line to mark the correct position of the car lift. Drill a concrete thickness test hole through the center of the power unit, making sure that it’s square with the line.
Next, place the two lifting pads at the manufacturer’s recommended pick-up points. If the vehicle is framed, you may need to install truck adapters. Then, push up the lift switch until the tires clear the floor. Check for adapter contact before lifting the vehicle. Then, raise the lift to the desired height. Remember to lower it back into the nearest lock position after use.
Determine the minimum thickness of concrete required
In order to install a 2 post car lift, you need to create a hole large enough to accommodate the columns. This hole must be at least two feet by two feet, and ten to twelve inches deep. After you have made the hole, you must secure it with concrete. Make sure to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations, as well as the minimum thickness of concrete required for a 2-post car lift test hole.
Once you have decided to install a 2-post car lift, you should assess the area and inspect the concrete slab. The minimum thickness should be at least 4.25″ thick, be cured for 28 days, and have no more than a three-degree slope. If you’re installing a MaxJax model, you need to have concrete that is three thousand psi Comprehensive Strength (CSC).
Determine if your slab is a “traditional concrete” slab or a “post tension cable” slab
To determine whether your slab is a post-tension cable or a traditional concrete slab, it’s important to understand the differences between the two. In most cases, a post-tension cable slab does not require deep footings around the perimeter or under load-bearing walls. The main difference is that post-tension cable slabs are more rigid, and the cables remain in place over changing voids in the soil. You can also identify post-tension slabs by checking your building plans or hiring a post-tension cable locator service.
A traditional concrete slab is formed by pouring a single layer on-site and allowing it to cure before adding weight. It’s the most common type of slab. Post-tension concert slabs are more popular in dry areas where the soil tends to contract, leaving voids under the foundation of a slab. These slabs have tensioning cables laced across the subsurface, mechanically tightening them when new concrete is poured.